8/15/2001: Atlantis at Havana Exhibition Sevens

Emil Signes
September 14, 2001
JUNE 26, 2013

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Note of June 2013: Interesting tour, lots of good times and great stories.  Behind the scenes there were also some "issues."  And the now-infamous "cigar story."  This is the article on the Cuba portion of the trip as prepared for Rugby Magazine.

Atlantis Tour of Cuba, Caymans:

The Cuba Portion

Emilito

The Atlantis invitational sevens rugby team traveled to the first Cayman Island Sevens this year, where it won 4 and lost 3, going down in the Plate Final.  Its performance there is outlined in another article in this issue.

En route to the Cayman Islands, Atlantis made its second visit to Cuba, where it played two tune-up matches, one with Cuba “B” and one with the Cuban national team.

From a rugby point of view, this part of the trip was insignificant, but from a human relations point of view, it was a beautiful thing.

The Tour Party

As last year, Omar Rivera was the tour manager and I went as coach.  Al Caravelli, who would put on coaching and managing hats in the Caymans, was in Cuba as a player.  Sue Bercuk, as last year, was team physio. My son Stephen came as tour photographer.

Doug Brown of Kansas City was the team captain and was joined by teammates Mike Skahan and Steve Robke.  Kurt Shuman, Kevin Linzey, Sebastian Fitzgerald, and Paul Enright represented New York AC.  Our sole representative from the left coast was Marc Vera of Olympic Club.  Nick Humphries came as a player, but an injury suffered in Conshohocken the previous weekend kept him off the field the whole tour.

Atlantis Number, Name, Club
394 Doug Brown, Kansas City Blues
267 Al Caravelli, New York AC
523 Paul Enright,
New York AC
563 Sebastian Fitzgerald,
New York AC, Oxford U.
524 Kevin Linzey,
New York AC
398 Steve Robke, Kansas City Blues
564 Kurt Shuman,
New York AC
426 Mike Skahan, Kansas City Blues
543 Marc Vera, Olympic Club

Cubans and Cuba

We were pleased to again see Paul Ruiz Mena, our liaison from the previous year.  Paul has begun a youth rugby league for boys from 9 to 14, and it was wonderful to see them playing before and between our matches.  Kevin Linzey’s 12-year old cousin Danny Aron was with us and made his rugby debut in Havana.  A pretty unique experience, I would venture to say.

Before game day, Omar and I met with Cuban captain Alexis Figueras (“Figaro”) and their talented fly half Champierre Diaz.  It was heart-wrenching to hear Champierre tell us how he was selected to represent the West Indies at the Cayman Island Sevens (the West Indies were willing to pay everything) and then be told by the Cuban government that he wouldn’t be allowed to go.  “The Cuban team went to France last year,” they reminded him, “and two of you defected.” “But I came back,” was his futile response.

Off the field, we spent our first evening in the Cathedral Square drinking mojitos and listening to beautiful Cuban music.  I was “amused” when team members asked how, after everything they’d heard, Cubans could afford to be at such a nice place.  “Duh,” I refrained from saying, then noted, “98% of these people are not Cuban.  Cubans can’t afford to come here.”  I had to repeat that statement the next day at the beach.

Of course, that’s not entirely true anymore.  An “upper class” of Cubans is beginning to emerge, people that can afford to live by spending dollars.   Almost without exception they are people that work in the tourist industry: bellhops, prostitutes, cab drivers, waiters, etc.  A story going the rounds this year: “Oh, you’re only a brain surgeon,” a young woman says as she turns down a suitor, “I thought you were a cab driver.”

Our Matches

On the field, Atlantis easily dispatches Cuba “B”, but the second game is a different story.  Cuba scores off the opening kickoff, and holds a 5-0 lead for most of the half.  We score to end the half, and end up with a difficult 21-5 win.

Post-match


After the match we have one of our most unique and fun rugby experiences.  One of the things that we insisted on this year was an after-match function, at a place selected by the Cubans.  It was, of course, to be “our treat.” 

We were taken to the “Rhumba Palace,” a little club about a quarter mile from the pitch.  The lights were dim and the place was empty – not just of people, but of “things” as well: nothing but chairs and tables.  There were about 50 of us.  We agreed to buy a hundred beers (at 50 cents each), 50 sandwiches (at 20 cents each) and a couple of bottles of rum.

We sit in the hot, sweaty hall, quietly waiting for the refreshments (they have to acquired “somewhere else”). When they finally arrive, the beers are a bit “different” from what we are used to.  The rum comes in recycled 2-liter soft-drink bottles.  “Can we get a different brand of beer?” one of us asks?  Er, no, now you’re in the real Cuba.  You get what you get.  The Cubans insist on paying for the rum, and when they open their wallets, we see something we’re not used to – not dollars but Cuban pesos.
 
Finally, we are somewhere that Cubans go.

Omar thanks the Cubans for their hospitality and opens up a huge duffel bag sent courtesy of Matt Godek: dozens of boots, jerseys, shorts, socks . . . things the Cubans could never afford.  Our players distribute many of the extra kit items they have brought.

Kevin Linzey has a marvelous idea, and challenges the Cubans to a boat race (a beer chugging contest).  The Cubans exult in their victory and challenge us to a song-singing contest.  The fun begins, culminating in a Cuban-led many-chorused version of “Guantanamera.”   Then we leave the Cubans to whatever they are to do that evening, and go back to the hotel for dinner.

Barbara Ann

We split up, and the group I’m with ends up at “El Gato Tuerto,” or “The One-eyed Cat,” where we hear a vocal group singing mixtures of Cuban songs, calypso medleys, and classic American songs including doo-wop and THE best version of Barbara Ann that I have ever heard.

The following morning we’re at the Havana airport and on our way to the Cayman Islands, wealthy people, and $7 beers.

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