8/15/2001: Atlantis at Havana Exhibition Sevens
    
    Emil Signes
        September 14, 2001
        JUNE 26, 2013
      
    
    
    
     
          
      Note of June 2013: Interesting tour, lots
          of good times and great stories.  Behind the scenes there were also some
                    "issues."  And the now-infamous
                      "cigar story."  This is the article on
                    the Cuba portion of the trip as prepared for Rugby
                      Magazine.
      
    
    
      
Atlantis Tour of Cuba,
          Caymans:
      The Cuba Portion
      Emilito
    
    
      The Atlantis invitational sevens rugby team traveled to the first
      Cayman Island Sevens this year, where it won 4 and lost 3, going
      down in the Plate Final.  Its performance there is outlined
      in another article in this issue.
      
      En route to the Cayman Islands, Atlantis made its second visit to
      Cuba, where it played two tune-up matches, one with Cuba “B” and
      one with the Cuban national team.
      
      From a rugby point of view, this part of the trip was
      insignificant, but from a human relations point of view, it was a
      beautiful thing.
    
    
      
The Tour Party
    
    As last year, Omar Rivera was the tour manager and I
      went as coach.  Al Caravelli, who would put on coaching and
      managing hats in the Caymans, was in Cuba as a player.  Sue
      Bercuk, as last year, was team physio. My son Stephen came as tour
      photographer.
      
      Doug Brown of Kansas City was the team captain and was joined by
      teammates Mike Skahan and Steve Robke.  Kurt Shuman, Kevin
      Linzey, Sebastian Fitzgerald, and Paul Enright represented New
      York AC.  Our sole representative from the left coast was
      Marc Vera of Olympic Club.  Nick Humphries came as a player,
      but an injury suffered in Conshohocken the previous weekend kept
      him off the field the whole tour.
      
      Atlantis Number, Name, Club
          394 Doug Brown, Kansas
            City Blues
            267 Al Caravelli, New York AC
              523 Paul Enright, New York
                          AC
                          563 Sebastian
                              Fitzgerald, New York
                                        AC, Oxford U.
                                        524 Kevin Linzey, New York
                                                      AC
                                                      398
                                                        Steve Robke,
                                                          Kansas City
                                                          Blues
                                                          564
                                                          Kurt Shuman, New
                                                          York AC
                                                          426
                                                          Mike Skahan,
                                                          Kansas City
                                                          Blues
                                                          543
                                                          Marc Vera,
                                                          Olympic Club
    
    
      
Cubans and Cuba
    
    We were pleased to again see Paul Ruiz Mena, our
      liaison from the previous year.  Paul has begun a youth rugby
      league for boys from 9 to 14, and it was wonderful to see them
      playing before and between our matches.  Kevin Linzey’s
      12-year old cousin Danny Aron was with us and made his rugby debut
      in Havana.  A pretty unique experience, I would venture to
      say.
      
      Before game day, Omar and I met with Cuban captain Alexis Figueras
      (“Figaro”) and their talented fly half Champierre Diaz.  It
      was heart-wrenching to hear Champierre tell us how he was selected
      to represent the West Indies at the Cayman Island Sevens (the West
      Indies were willing to pay everything) and then be told by the
      Cuban government that he wouldn’t be allowed to go.  “The
      Cuban team went to France last year,” they reminded him, “and two
      of you defected.” “But I came back,” was his futile response.
      
      Off the field, we spent our first evening in the Cathedral Square
      drinking mojitos and listening to beautiful Cuban music.  I
      was “amused” when team members asked how, after everything they’d
      heard, Cubans could afford to be at such a nice place. 
      “Duh,” I refrained from saying, then noted, “98% of these people
      are not Cuban.  Cubans can’t afford to come here.”  I
      had to repeat that statement the next day at the beach.
      
      Of course, that’s not entirely true anymore.  An “upper
      class” of Cubans is beginning to emerge, people that can afford to
      live by spending dollars.   Almost without exception
      they are people that work in the tourist industry: bellhops,
      prostitutes, cab drivers, waiters, etc.  A story going the
      rounds this year: “Oh, you’re only a brain surgeon,” a young woman
      says as she turns down a suitor, “I thought you were a cab
      driver.” 
    
    Our Matches
    On the field, Atlantis easily dispatches Cuba “B”,
      but the second game is a different story.  Cuba scores off
      the opening kickoff, and holds a 5-0 lead for most of the
      half.  We score to end the half, and end up with a difficult
      21-5 win.
    
    Post-match
    
      After the match we have one of our most unique and fun rugby
      experiences.  One of the things that we insisted on this year
      was an after-match function, at a place selected by the
      Cubans.  It was, of course, to be “our treat.”  
      
      We were taken to the “Rhumba Palace,” a little club about a
      quarter mile from the pitch.  The lights were dim and the
      place was empty – not just of people, but of “things” as well:
      nothing but chairs and tables.  There were about 50 of
      us.  We agreed to buy a hundred beers (at 50 cents each), 50
      sandwiches (at 20 cents each) and a couple of bottles of rum.
      
      We sit in the hot, sweaty hall, quietly waiting for the
      refreshments (they have to acquired “somewhere else”). When they
      finally arrive, the beers are a bit “different” from what we are
      used to.  The rum comes in recycled 2-liter soft-drink
      bottles.  “Can we get a different brand of beer?” one of us
      asks?  Er, no, now you’re in the real Cuba.  You get
      what you get.  The Cubans insist on paying for the rum, and
      when they open their wallets, we see something we’re not used to –
      not dollars but Cuban pesos.
       
      Finally, we are somewhere that Cubans go.
      
      Omar thanks the Cubans for their hospitality and opens up a huge
      duffel bag sent courtesy of Matt Godek: dozens of boots, jerseys,
      shorts, socks . . . things the Cubans could never afford. 
      Our players distribute many of the extra kit items they have
      brought.
      
      Kevin Linzey has a marvelous idea, and challenges the Cubans to a
      boat race (a beer chugging contest).  The Cubans exult in
      their victory and challenge us to a song-singing contest. 
      The fun begins, culminating in a Cuban-led many-chorused version
      of “Guantanamera.”   Then we leave the Cubans to
      whatever they are to do that evening, and go back to the hotel for
      dinner.
    
    Barbara Ann
    We split up, and the group I’m with ends up at “El
      Gato Tuerto,” or “The One-eyed Cat,” where we hear a vocal group
      singing mixtures of Cuban songs, calypso medleys, and classic
      American songs including doo-wop and THE best version of Barbara
      Ann that I have ever heard.
      
      The following morning we’re at the Havana airport and on our way
      to the Cayman Islands, wealthy people, and $7 beers.