May 2014: Atlantis Women in Spain

"Readers' Digest Condensed Books" Version

(Atlantis tournament #144)
Emil Signes

  JULY 10, 2014 (rev. July 30, 2014)

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Team after championship of Madrid 7s Leg 3
Atlantis Women Win Madrid Sevens

Atlantis Women Win Madrid Sevens
0531d-cw- Sat Madrid Champs-ed-1200w.jpg

The Condensed Version

Full-length version.  The full-length version of this report was created for a) me, and b) those that went on the trip, with some pieces - but not all - relevant and hopefully of interest to some small subset of current and future acquaintances, friends & family. It may be found by going through the Table of Contents, or read about one of the two-day segments by going to Atlantis in Spain-I: Madrid & Madrid Selects, or to Atlantis in Spain-II: the Mediterranean and the Signes Family, or to the final section Atlantis in Spain-III: Madrid Sevens.

Condensed version. What follows is the equivalent of a "Reader's Digest Condensed Books" version.

Background & Summary

The Atlantis women made their 5th visit to Spain in May of 2014, the third to Madrid (1999 & 2000); they have also been once to Benidorm (1992) and once to La Coruña (1997).  The Atlantis men have been 12 times to Spain, all 12 times to Benidorm.  A guest participant, we came away with the championship of Leg 3 of the Madrid Sevens Series.  

Madrid 7s champs 1999
1999: Last Atlantis Madrid Sevens championship was 15 years ago
Top: Tyshawn Henry, Jules McCoy, Natasha Kabloui, Becky Metzger, Jen Sikora, unknown
Bottom: Michelle Persica, Haley Steele, Meg Madden, Justine Sleezer, Tracy Moens, Tanya Hahn

 1999-06 Madrid-women-champs-900w.jpg

Benidorm Out, Madrid In
. Atlantis women were scheduled to participate in the women's division of the Benidorm Sevens. Unfortunately, after our entire team had purchased tickets to Madrid, the women's division was canceled.  Thankfully, former US Sevens Eagle James "Guppy" Gillenwater, who had lived and played in Spain, connected me with Álvaro Montero, the coach of the Madrid Selection. Álvaro saved our tour.  Álvaro made several connections for us which allowed us to compete in the third leg of the Madrid Sevens Series on Saturday May 31. He also helped us prepare for that by scrimmaging the Madrid Selects, who themselves were preparing for a big European sevens tournament in Rome in mid-June. 


Lauren gives Alvaro ball
Our captain Lauren Rhode thanks Álvaro with a signed Atlantis ball
0528b-mm-DSC03825-giving Alvaro the ball-ed-1200w.jpg

Side Trip to the Mediterranean.  One of the highlights of most Atlantis Benidorm tours has been a visit to my father's home town of Gata de Gorgos, less than 5 miles from the Mediterranean. Thanks to Ignacio Davila, the organizer of the Benidorm Sevens, who I'm sure felt bad about having to cancel the women's division, we were able to visit Benidorm and his home town of Villajoyosa (both directly on the Mediterranean, train at the Benidorm 7s stadium (which is actually in Villajoyosa) and have a great meal at La Vila thanks to Ignacio and his wife Maike. While we were there we made a visit to Gata where we were treated to some of the world's best paella.


About
          to pounce on the paella   Team & Antonio at
          table
Left: About to pounce on the paella / Right: Team with Antonio welcoming us at the head of the table
0529c-cw-DSC_0760-ed-1400w.jpg / 0529c-cw-DSC_0785-Antonio & team at table-ed-1000s.jpg

Madrid Sevens Series Leg 3.  We returned in time for the climax of the tour, the Madrid Sevens: it was leg 3 of a 4-leg series, and we were the only one-off participant among the top Madrid teams. We won the tournament, improving with each game, and playing particularly well in the final. We played well!

Kaelene
          and Sanse 7
Kaelene takes off; All seven Sanse Scrum defenders in view.
A week after we left, Sanse Scrum took the championship of the entire Madrid Sevens Severs
0531c-fs-IMG_5964-Kaelene v Sanse S-ed-1200w.jpg


Off-the-Field.  We had a great time off the field, including but not limited to the stops in the Costa Blanca area of Spain near the Mediterranean. We did a lot of sight-seeing in Madrid - museums, parks, and other attractions. The usual rugby tour social events - fine sessions, nicknames, rookie and other shows, etc - were not missing.

Josie
          @ Estanco   On metro
Left: Josie at the Estanque (pond) in the Retiro / Right: One of more than a dozen Metro rides that got us around Madrid
0526b-jz-IMG_6463-Josie in boat-ed-1200w.jpg / 0528b-cw-DSC_0484-en route to Madrid scrimmage-ed-600w.jpg

The individuals on the team all enjoyed themselves, and some individual quotes are scattered throughout this article.

The official start of our tour was after lunch on Tuesday May 27th, but several people took advantage of the Memorial Day weekend to get there early. 

I - First Days in Madrid

Seven of us were there in time for the 2nd leg of the Madrid Sevens on Sunday May 25th. Álvaro Montero not only got us a joint practice / scrimmage with the Madrid Selects and a spot in Leg 3 of the Madrid Sevens Series, but also made the initial contact for our early arriving players, who wanted to try to play the first weekend. Four of them picked up with Arquitectura, who was short players.

Jess scoring  Eli tackle
Jess & Eli playing for Arquitectura: Jess try / Eli tackle
0525b-fs-IMG_5311-jess try4-ed-1000h.jpg / 0525b-fs-IMG_5377-Eli tackle-ed-900w.jpg

Following the tournament we went to an after-match social event with Arquitectura and joined them in a game they call "¡Tensión!"

Tension!
Playing ¡Tensión! with Arquitectura ["¡Tensión! ¡Más tensión!"]
Click on figure to see a video clip
0525c-cw-DSC_0145-tension-ed-1000w.jpg

The early arrivals also got to participate in and enjoy Madrid activities, which included a visit to the Prado Museum, the Retiro Park, and several other areas of old Madrid, such as the Plaza Mayor, the Puerta del Sol and the Plaza Santa Ana.


Here's the Puerta del Sol prior to the European Cup soccer championship.  Those of us that were there went for tapas, then a meal, watching the game our of one corner of our eye.  It was between the two Madrid powers, Real Madrid, the favorite and Atlético Madrid, who won. The Puerta del Sol is considered the geographic center of Spain, and there is a marker in the sidewalk next to the clock tower that indicates Spain's "kilometer zero." At the time, I thought having both finalists be from Spain boded well for Spain in the [soccer] World Cup.  Who knew they'd be one of the first countries eliminated?

Puerta
          del So with jerseys   KM 0
Left: The clock tower that represents Spain's km 0; Right: the marker in front of the clock tower
0524-ew-IMG_0037-Puerta del Sol & soccer tonight-ed-1200w.jpg /  km 0.jpg

Those players that visited the Prado said that its themes seemed to be, best they could tell, "Jesus and Boobs." Perhaps to illustrate the latter then, this (left photo below) is the only photo anyone took at the Prado:

Rubens
          the 3 graces  On the Retiro
          Estanque
Left: Rubens' "The three graces," at the Prado / Right: Rhi, Dana, Eli relaxing on the pond at the Retiro
0526a-cw-DSC_0198-Prado-nudes-ed-1000q.jpg /    0526b-jz-IMG_6466-Eli Dana Rhi in boat-ed-1200w.jpg


 Cheers! at Viña P

Toasting you at Viña P on the Plaza Santa Ana
 0526c-cw-DSC_0348-1st drink together-ed-1200w.jpg

Tuesday: The touring party and our official start. You never know 100%, until people actually get off their planes at their destination, whether your entire squad will make it.  But by early afternoon, Tuesday the 28th of May, we were all in Madrid! Märki (Michelle Marki, AKA Märki Mark) was the last to arrive.

Märki: 
"I knew the teammates I was about to meet for the first time had kind souls when I read the note on the Madrid apartment door gate saying, "If you are Michelle, press 2 and we will buzz you in. Love, your Atlantis family."

Dana Creager was Manager/Coach, and I was Emperor/Coach
. The players, with their Atlantis number, name and club, are listed below.


Atlantis
Number

Name
Club
951
Rhi Clark
DC Furies
997
Kaelene Lundstrum
MN Amazons
998
Michelle Marki
Morris (NJ)
994
Mollie Martin
SD Surfers
898
Lauren Rhode
DC Furies
956
Jess Turner
Berkeley All Blues
704
Eli White
DC Furies
996
Jess Wooden
Atlanta Harlequins
999
Cynthia Wright
DC Furies
914
Josie Ziluca
NOVA

 Note to Marki  Our piso
Left: Note to our last arrival, Märki / Right: the extent of our apartment (from photographer to Josie, red
0527a-mm-DSC03486-note for Marki-ed-1200w.jpg / 0527a-ew-IMG_0169-our piso extent-ed-800w.jpg

On Tuesday, the first day we were all together, we were able to practice, thanks to Arquitectura's coach Pilar Hernández, at the Arquitectura field. Following our own practice, we went through some situations with them in a semi-opposed manner. We spent all our time on open-field play, kick-offs, and as we had a 22-m line, drop-outs.

On
          ropes at Arquitectura

scrimmage - Mollie
          breaks
Top: We practice the defensive train using ropes / Bottom: scrimmage v. Arquitectura; Mollie on a break
0527b-cw-DSC_0422-defemse pm ropes-ed-1400w.jpg /0527b-cw-DSC_0466-scrimmage-ed-1400w.jpg

Some of us followed up the great practice with dinner next door to our apartment.  Our dinner consisted solely of what I've always called tapas, but have been corrected: the proper name for them is raciones (portions).  Tapas strictly just refers to tiny portions such as those bartenders often give you as free portions when you order a drink.

Asparagus at Casa del Abuelo    Mushrooms at Casa del Abuelo    Shrimp at Casa del
          Abuelo
Some great tapas/raciones at La Casa del Abuelo:  asparagus with garlic sauce / Mushroom / Shrimp
0527c-mm-DSC03629-asparagus-ed-800s.jpg  /0527c-mm-DSC03639-mushrooms-ed-800s.jpg / 0527c-mm-DSC03631-shrimp-ed-800s.jpg

On Wednesday we had our only day of double sessions; early Wednesday we found a tiny spot among some trees in the Retiro to work on scrums and lineouts and some situations at the tackle.  Wednesday evening, thanks to Álvaro Montero, we were able to practice on the same ground as the Madrid Selects, and then play four full seven-minute live periods against them. It was great for us, and hopefully for them as well.  As well as the game, one of the Spanish national team's video analysts, Nacho Pérez, filmed the scrimmage and provided us with tape.

Everyone told me just how difficult it would be to find practice space in Madrid, so we are especially grateful to both Pilar and Álvaro for Tuesday and Wednesday's practice sites.

Scrum
          practie  rhi
            try 3
Left: Dana showed the forwards some fundamentals, and some tricks / Right: Great try by Rhi vs Madrid Selects (click image to see)
0528a-mm-DSC03686-scrum practice in woods-ed-1200w.jpg / 0528s-Rhi try-3-245s.jpg

Click on the following links for the videos of the games; we had some nice tries:
1st Period vs. Madrid Selects 
2nd Period vs. Madrid Selects / 3rd Period vs. Madrid Selects / 4th Period vs. Madrid Selects 
Atlantis Tries vs. Madrid Selects

It was an excellent competition - if their selection was right we were facing the best players we'd see all week; they'd be playing for different clubs on the weekend -, and left us feeling prepared.  If we treated it like a scoring competition we would have won 31-12.  On the other hand, Álvaro told us he was going to put together their best VII at the end of the competition, and - had it been two games we would have won the first 26-0 and lost the second 5-12, and Madrid scored the only try of the last 7 minutes.  Lots of work still to do.

The Madrid Selects went on to the European championship tournament in Rome where they were finalists, losing to Paris whom they had beaten in pool play.

We headed back to our apartment, grabbed some food and got ready for our side trip to the Mediterranean: to Benidorm and to the Signes ancestral home of Gata de Gorgos (Alicante).

II - Atlantis at the Mediterranean

We spent two days in one of my favorite parts of Spain: the Costa Blanca, the area around the Mediterranean in the province of Alicante.

Ignacio Davila provided for accommodation, a big team meal in his home town of La Vila Joiosa, and help with rental car expenses to get us to Benidorm and la Vila.  In return I promised to see if I could help get some women's teams to commit to Benidorm to help assure women's division in 2015 ... Finally, I see this trip as a way to get the entire team to visit my father's home town of Gata, where I have several relatives including a first cousin that has a bar-restaurant and who has always welcomed Atlantis teams.

Had we stayed in Madrid we would have been able to get a couple more practices in; as it was we were only able to practice once.  I felt, however, the upside of this diversion would outweigh the loss of one practice. It was my job to make sure we were adequately prepared for Saturday's tournament and I felt one more practice would do it.


At any rate, if I'm taking a team on tour that's paying all their own expenses my thought process includes the following:

1. As a team, we have to enjoy ourselves. Or why would anyone want to tour with me again?

2. If I select players that place a high priority on making on-the-field results be an integral part of enjoyment, then they'll figure out a way to mix off-the-field fun with what they need to do.

3. A corollary of 2 is that all of us need to be willing to prepare properly to maximize our probability of winning.  Prepare to win!

4. It helps to have players that are easy to get along with and can combine fun with 2 and 3, above.

5. The key to success in achieving these goals clearly lies in picking the right players. 


If I've selected the players properly, then by definition a large component of enjoying ourselves will include for the team, as it does for me, success on the field, fueled by hard work on the practice field... and treating our bodies properly. Oh, and we'll have fun off the field as well.

Dana put it far more succinctly: 
"I really enjoy coaching players that have a carefree attitude mixed with a strong desire to work hard and learn new things.  The players on this tour perfectly encapsulated all of those things.

Benidorm: on the beach.  We left Madrid early Thursday morning with rental cars we picked up at the airport. Our first stop was in Benidorm, where we hit the beach, and had a couple of skits, by both the Cokes (oldest 5 players) and the Pepsis (youngest 5). 

Team on
          beach
Team on Beach. The high rise part of Benidorm may be seen at back, left. Below: Jess W, Märki, Mollie
Standing: Dana, Cynthia, Lauren, Eli, Rhi, Lunde, JT, Josie, Emil
0529b-cw-DSC_0624-Team on Benidorm beach-ed-1200w.jpg

Gata de Gorgos [AKA Signesville:)]. The first Atlantis team that ever played in Benidorm was a men's team in 1988.  It's only a half hour drive to my father's home town of Gata de Gorgos, and from several visits there I knew many relatives.  The team wandered around town, and visited my cousin Antonio's Bar-Restaurant, the Bar al Pou, which means "Bar at the Well" in Valencian.  The building had, many decades ago, been my father's. At any rate, since 1988 I've taken many Atlantis teams for an evening of paella at the Pou; this would be, however, the first time I'd brought a women's team.

The first time I was ever in Gata was in 1964 and it was amazing! In the entire town there were two cars (as well as the tiny Seat [the Spanish-made version of Fiat] I had rented in Valencia); the whole town seemed to be run by donkey power.  There were only a couple of TVs in town (there was one shop that had a TV in the window for the public to watch), and almost no phones (if you were calling from out of town, you could call one of the ones that existed and try to get the respondent to go find your party, wherever in town they might be).

Now it's comfortably in the 21st century, as Spain has moved from "la España de siempre" (the unchanging Spain of forever) to a first-world country in just a few decades.

Gata has a Signes Street, and businesses named Signes as well, a "Signes Furniture" and others. When I last checked a nationwide telephone directory in the 90s, 20% of Gata had either their father's or mother's surname Signes. 90% of all the Signes in Spain come from Gata or neighboring towns. Likewise the vast majority of Signes in the world can trace their roots to this tiny area. When he saw Signes on the signs of businesses on Atlantis' trip in 1995, Benidorm 7s MVP Thadd Hill nicknamed Gata "Signesville."
 
On our arrival in Gata we headed straight to the Bar al Pou, the last building in town.  It's a bar-restaurant whose proprietors are my cousin Antonio Signes Signes and his wife María.  Operating the bar tonight and serving us were Antonio, María, María's mother Teresa, their daughters Rosa and Maite Signes Mulet, and Maite's husband Juan.

The first item of business was to get our picture taken at the outside of the bar.

Team at Pou
Team in front of my cousin Antonio's Bar al Pou
0529c-cw-DSC_0647-Team in front of Pou-ed-1205w.jpg

Here I am united with the Gata Signes family.


Maite
          Maria Emilito Antonio
With my cousin Antonio and his wife María Rosa
On left their daughter María Teresa (Maite), who tells us she is pregnant with the next Antonio
0529c-es-DSCF0716-Signes at Pou-1200w.jpg

The story of our trip to Gata is documented here with pictures far more than with words.
  We presented Antonio with a ball signed by members of the tour party, and Antonio brought out old balls we had left with him in the past.  I'm pretty sure the stars and stripes balls are 1995 (the year we won) and 1998, the blue ball is from 2006, and the 4th ball is this year's.

Old
          balls plus new one
Balls from 4 separate Atlantis trips.
Clockwise from right stars and stripes ball, they are from 1998, 2006, 1995 and 2014
0529d-jz-IMG_6622-old Atlantis balls-ed-1200w.jpg

My philosophy is that it's always time for a team picture: here's one with the team joined by all the past and present Atlantis balls in Gata.  I am fortunate to be surrounded by 13 women: not only by our entire team (minus the photographer Cynthia) but the two young Signes women as well.

Team,
          balls, Rosa & Maite
Team, Rosa, Maite, and the four resident Atlantis balls
0529c-cw-DSC_0708-Team & previous balls-ed-1200w.jpg

¡Paella!

Sangría and Salad.  Our main course is to be paella, but we start with salad.

As with most meals, paella can be enhanced by some liquid refreshment, and Antonio brings some sangría.  He warns that the drinking and driving laws - and punishments - have become so severe in Spain that the drivers should drink NO alcohol.  As it turned out, warnings were in order for our driving, but not due to alcohol; we made sure our drivers didn't drink.  A couple of weeks after returning to the US, however, we received notices of fines due to speeding as captured by police cameras. Not pleasant ... and expensive!

Rosa
          brings salad   Antonio
          brings sangria
Left: Rosa brings salad / Right: Antonio brings sangría
0529c-cw-DSC_0712-Rosa brings salad-ed-800s.jpg / 0529c-jz-IMG_6588-Antonio brings sangria-ed.jpg

Paella
Paella is a regional dish native to the Valencian region of Spain, and Gata is part of the "Comunidad Valenciana," one of the 17 autonomous communities that currently make up Spain. We begin with salad, and Antonio brings out some sangria.

Without further ado, we are ready to eat, and Antonio's son-in-law, Maite's husband Juan Lillo Manzanares, brings out the paella.

We serve ourselves, and ... it's on!

Juan
          brings out paella
Juan brings out the paella
0529c-cw-DSC_0753-Juan brings out paella-ed-1200w.jpg


The paella  Kaelene looks
            impressed
Left: the paella before eating / Right: Kaelene looks impressed
0529c-cw-DSC_0757-the paella-ed-1200w.jpg / 0529c-cw-DSC_0759-Kaelene looks impressed-ed-1000h.jpg

Players
          serve themselves  We eat, family
          works
We serve ourselves and get to work eating (while the family continues to work)
0529c-cw-DSC_0762-digging in-ed-1000w.jpg / 0529c-cw-DSC_0779-team eats dinner Ant & family working-ed-1000w.jpg

We thanked the chefs and got in a group picture with the team, María Rosa, and the person everyone in the family agreed was the inspiration behind the paella and the only person that knows all its details and secrets, María's mother Teresa Cervera. Märki gave the inspirational chef a big hug.

After I returned home, I asked Rosa for the ingredients of everything we ate, but to keep any secrets to herself.  I got the following list:

Salad: lettuce, onion, tomato, olives, pepper, cheese, jamón serrano, tuna, white asparagus. And of course olive oil and vinegar.

Other appetizers included squid and bread with "all i oli," a garlic and oil sauce.

Sangría: wine, orange drink, brandy, vermouth, seasonal fruit, sugar, possibly gin or rum, ice.

Paella: rice, rabbit, chicken, pork cutlet, cuttlefish, mussels, shrimp, green beans, roasted red pepper, chickpeas, saffron, food coloring, salt, water ... the only secret, says Rosa, is the cook.
 
I have determined that when I return with my wife Heide, hopefully later this year, we will document the recipe and get Teresa to give us preparation instructions.

Team
          and the chefs  Marki hugs the
          inspiration chef
Left. Thanking the chefs: 88-year old Teresa Cervera Molina, with ball, and her daughter María Rosa Mulet Cervera.
Right. Märki thanks Teresa with a big hug
0529c-ew-IMG_0243-everyone with the chefs-ed-1200w.jpg
0529c-ew-IMG_0242-praising the chef w Marki-ed-400w.jpg

Wandering through Gata

With Rosa Signes to guide us, we were able to wander through a few of Gata's streets. The first picture, below, shows us walking off the main drag onto a typical Gata street (Carrer del Dr. Gómez Ferrer).  Next we have Rosa and I stopping in front of Carrer La Bassa 57, the house where my father and our grandfather were born. I forgot to ask, but the last time I was in Gata the house remained unoccupied, and it looked that way still. 

In the time of my parents' generation - and when I first visited there - the wide doors were necessary so the cart, pulled by the family donkey, could be taken through the door, through the kitchen (once the table was moved), through the back patio into his stall (which area was shared with the family outhouse). Thus the bottom of the door is flush with the sidewalk.


Walking down Gata street at night Rosa and Emil at Emilio
          Signes Monfort birthplace
Left: Wandering through Gata / Right: Rosa & Emilio at her grandfather's, his father's birthplace
0529d-cw-DSC_0813-wandering through Gata-ed-900w.jpg / 0529d-ew-IMG_0249-Rosa & Emilio @ EMS birthplace-ed-900w.jpg

We passed the church and heard music coming out.  We quietly walked in the side door and heard choir practice.  It was really pleasant and I wish I had recorded it, but of course I didn't think of it till after the fact.  When we were leaving we realized that Märki had gone in the main entrance to actually use the church as a church.

Iglesia
          de Gata  Marki visiting
          church 
Left: Church of St. Michael the Archangel / Right: Märki in church
0529d-cw-DSC_0807-church-ED-1200h.jpg / 0529d-cw-DSC_0808-Marki praying in church-ED-1200h.jpg

As is our tradition, the entire team was photographed at Carrer Signes.  Then we passed by a place I had never particularly noticed before: Plaça Nova (New Plaza or Square). Dana, however, the coach of the NOVA (Northern Virginia) Sevens Rugby team, spotted it very quickly and was happy to be photographed there!

   Team at Carrer Signes  Data at
        Plaza Nova
  The team at Carrer Signes / Dana finds Plaça NOVA
0529d-cw-DSC_0816-Carrer Signes-ed-900w.jpg / 0529d-es-DSCF0730-Dana at Plac%CC%A7a Nova-450w.jpg

We said our goodbyes and headed back to Benidorm.

Cynthia: "This tour exemplified once more how the rugby game and culture permeates our society at a global level . . . It's a good reminder of how small and interconnected our world actually is. I will never forget standing in the orange groves in Gata as the sun sets, in awe of the beauty and peace. Regardless of what may be going over here in DC, I know that those sunsets are still happening in Gata. At the risk of sounding corny, i look forward to finding more of those moments. I'm honored to be part of this rugby family and can't wait for the next opportunity.
"

Märki: "My favorite part of the trip was visiting Coach Emil's extended Signes family and receiving their gracious hospitality and generosity of amazing paella (featuring rabbit!) and food, touring around, and seeing 'Carrer Signes' in Gata de Gorgos, near Benidorm, Spain."

Friday: Practice at La Vila's Camp de Joc

"Camp de Joc" is Valencian for "playing field" ("Campo de Juego" in Castilian Spanish) and the first place we headed to in the morning - so as not to forget the reason this particular group originally signed up to come to Spain - was the playing field at Villajoyosa.  By the way, I refer to this town alternately as "Villajoyosa" (its Spanish name) and "La Vila Joiosa" (or simply "La Vila") in Valencian.  In both languages this means "The Joyful Town." I didn't get a picture of the front entrance, so I grabbed this picture from Atlantis' 1995 (championship) tour to Benidorm
.


Camp de
          Joc 1995
Main Entrance to La Vila's playing field. Atlantis entering to practice in 1995
 1995-05 Camp de Joc-900w.jpg

Here's Atlantis after training at the La Vila's Camp de Joc.

Team Practiding at La Vila
            field
Atlantis following our practice at the La Vila Camp de Joc
0530a-mm-DSC04737-team at La Vila field-ed-1200w.jpg

Every practice brought us closer together.

Märki: 
"As we practiced together, I felt a rush of excitement pour in as I realized how talented my teammates from all over the US are, and whom I was eager to learn and gain feedback from. Coach Emil and Coach Dana have coached great American rugby and I gained valuable new rugby skills. We developed into a family quickly and we adventurously explored Madrid, enjoyed tapas & sangria, and played on the Benidorm beach together as though we'd already known each other for a long time."

Karting: Following our practice we went Go Karting at the track at the nearby town of Finestrat. Unlike the wimpy US go-kart tracks that I'd driven on, these karts exceeded 50 mph (there was a more expensive group of Karts that went over 70mph, but most of us were struggling to come up with the 30€ ($40) for the regular speed karts. 6 of us took up the challenge and I'm admitting up front that I had the slowest run, but divide our speed by the inverse of our ages and I'd be the winner by far.  At any rate, it was a phenomenal activity.

Here's Jess Wooden trying to cut off Eli as they come around a curve.

Jess going to cut off
                  Eli
Part way through this curve, Jess seems prepared to cut Eli off.
0530b-cw-DSC_0952-Jess cuts off Eli-ed-1200w.jpg

La Vila Joiosa.   We then headed to La Vila Joiosa (the local Valencian name; in Castilian Spanish it's Villajoyosa); both mean The Joyful Town. It's a beautiful town with magnificently covered façades on the buildings. We had a great meal at El Guitarra, enjoyed the accordion player, and also the singing, by the restaurant's proprietor. The food was awesome!  We thanked Ignacio Davila and his wife Maike, at El Guitarra restaurant on the beach at La Vila. Then we headed back to Madrid.


Beachfront buildings
Taken from the Villajoyosa Beach; El Guitarra, where we ate, is the middle (red) building
0530c-mm-DSC04819-main beach street of La Vila-ed-1200w.jpg


Maike
          Emil Ignacio   Dana gives
          Ignacio ball
Left: Maike Ignacio & Emil at El Guitarra / Right: Dana presents ball to Ignacio
0530c-es-DSCF0739-with Maike and Ignacio-ed-900s.jpg / 0530c-mm-DSC04853-Dana presents Ignacio ball-ed-900s.jpg

I think everyone appreciated this side trip.  Cynthia: 
"[The mid-week Mediterranean] portion of the trip could not have been more perfectly-timed.  Taking a break to head to the country was like taking a breath of fresh air... I'm in awe that amid the bustle around the world there still exists space like [this part of Spain] where there is a calmness, and more importantly a history that lives on, regardless of time. Emil's family is, just like the Arquitectura team, incredibly welcoming and loving, without having ever met us before. Amazing company, fantastic food (I had at least 4 helpings of the paella), beautiful beaches!"

From La Vila we headed straight back to Madrid. We had dinner and got to bed early enough to get to the tournament in time for a nice long warmup (our first game was at 10 AM).

As opposed to the spacious piso [apartment] we had the first two nights in Madrid, these were tiny rooms, with 2 bunks and 2 twins.

III - Atlantis at the Madrid VIIs

We got up around 7 and were at the Hortaleza field by 8:30. Our first game at the Madrid Sevens Leg 3, was against home team Hortaleza.  We won the game convincingly 30-0.  Our second game was against Rugby Atleti. We suspected from watching earlier that this team was not going to threaten us, and I asked the team to play to our pattern.  Instead, we played a very selfish game, with each person in turn trying to do everything on her own. I was really angry afterwards, but Dana encouraged me to relax. In retrospect, watching the video, there were a couple times I would have preferred they moved the ball, but for the most part, players were just playing what was in front of them. The final was 57-0.

Marki running vs. Rugby
            Atleti
Märki on the run against Rugby Atleti
0531b-fs-IMG_5814-Marki runs vs Rugby Atleti-ed-1200w.jpg

There was a 4 hour time period between the first and 2nd games, and we filled it with fun activities like charades.

Our semifinal game was against Sanse Scrum, one of the top teams in the series.  We didn't play to our potential - though Sanse Scrum played well - but we did come away with a 17-5 victory.

In retrospect, it's great that we got a chance to play Sanse Scrum in this tournament.  It turned out, based on the following week's results, Sanse Scrum went on to become the champion of the entire Madrid Sevens Series; they defeated Majadahonda 17-12 in the final of the entire series on an overtime try by Maria Ribera.

Mollie vs Sanse Scrum from
            GIF
Click on image to see GIF file of Mollie scoring
GIF file created by Majadahonda parent Francisco Santiago

0531c Mollie vs Sanse.jpg
0531c-fs-Mollie-try-ensayo-   GIF.gif

The first 15 minutes of the 20-minute final was the best sevens we played on the entire tour.  Majadahonda had a very talented "keep away" offense, with midfield players capable of quickly changing directions.  To defend, we got our numbers in place, then got ready to jump in the lanes and double-tackle when opportunities presented themselves.  We did it very well.

We scored the first try following a long break by Kaelene Lundstrum.  We had a scrum near the center and flyhalf Jess Wooden got the ball and took it to the left corner for the try.  Jess also scored the second try when she broke the line, stepped the sweeper and finished a 70-m try. Rhi Clark scored a third try from a Majadahonda turnover and following a great touchline conversion by Jess Wooden the halftime score was 19-0.

The first try of the first half belonged to us as well, as following a scrum at the Majadahonda 22, the ball got out to wing Mollie Martin who got outside her opposite to score 24-0.

We'd been playing with 10 players and Majadahonda 12, and with Lauren injured we were down to 9.  Majadahonda insisted on 10-minute halves (we would have done the same in their place) and now, about 14 minutes in, their decision seemed to be a wise one for them.  They picked up the pace, we started to get weary, and they started to turn the tables on us.  Although they did score 2 tries, we hung in there and the final score was 24-10.  Great finish to the playing part of the tour!

It was now around 9 PM and by the time the men's final was over - although it was still light - it was after 9:30 PM. In Madrid that means it's almost dinner time.


Jess confronts sweeper in final

Jess beats sweeper

In tourney final vs. Majadahonda, Jess breaks line, steps sweeper, and scores

0531b-fs-IMG_6154-Jess at sweeper-ed-1500w.jpg / 0531b-fs-IMG_6155-jess beats sweeper-ed-1500w.jpg

Atlantis and Majadahonda after final
Majadahonda and Atlantis following the final - all in the spirit of rugby
0531d-mm-DSC05397-Atlantis & Majadahonda-2-ed-1500w.jpg

While the entire tour was great, winning tournaments never gets old. Eli writes:

"The best part of the trip was winning the tournament, not just because we won, but because of how we won and how it felt as we played together - I almost didn't want the match to end. We started off the week a group of talented, but individual, rugby players. On Saturday, our first game, though we played well, we were still individuals. Each game we got a little better - maybe it was the bonding over Charades, or rallying around our injured Captain, or just the culmination of a week of fun together, but that last match, we really brought it all together. I remember in our pre-game huddle, we all looked at each other and promised to play that game for each other, for the player next to us with Atlantis on her chest, and we all really took that to heart. It wasn't just words, it was a great feeling, and we won that final in the best way - as a true team, with everyone making key contributions and playing for each other."

The videos (ball in play) of each game may be seen here:
Atlantis 30 Hortaleza 0 / Atlantis 57 Rugby Atleti 0 / 17 Atlantis vs. Sanse Scrum 5 / Atlantis 24 vs. Majadahonda 10

Our 22 tries on the day may be seen by clicking on one of the links below:
6 tries vs. Hortaleza / 9 tries vs. Rugby Atleti / 3 tries vs. Sanse Scrum / 4 tries vs. Majadahonda

Atlantis Scoring Summary, Madrid Sevens Leg 3
Player
Tries
Cv.
Pts
Jess Wooden
5
9
43
Mollie Martin
6
0
30
Josie Ziluca
4
0
20
Cynthia Wright
3
0
15
Rhi Clark
1
0
5
Kaelene Lundstrum
1
0
5
Michelle Marki
1
0
5
Eli White
1
0
5
Total
22
9
128
Opponents
3
0
15

Here's a wrap up, in Spanish, of the series.

http://rugbyfemenino.com.es/2014/06/sanse-scrum-campeon-del-seven-de-madrid/

And here, also in Spanish, a mention of the leg that we won.
http://rugbyfemenino.com.es/2014/06/atlantis-gano-la-tercera-serie-en-madrid/

IV - Atlantis Enjoying Madrid

Sunday was a bonus day, the rugby was done.

In the Madrid of my Besteiro ancestors. We head to Calle de Milaneses, 6. This is where my great-grandfather Ricardo Julián Besteiro - and his father José Besteiro before him - owned a store.

We sat down and had brunch in front of the old family business and residence: Calle de Milaneses is the street on the right side of the corner in the picture below. The building is now a bar, La Esquinita.  The street on the left side of the corner building is Costanilla de Santiago and the Besteiro family lived there, at #15, since at least 1855, the earliest year in which I could find them on the census; my great-grandfather Ricardo was less than a year old at the time of that census.

In
          front of Milaneses, 6
Team having meal in front of my great grandfather's store
0601a-es-DSCF0748-team at corner of Milaneses & C-Santiago-ed-1000w.jpg

Reina Sofia Museum.  The Reina Sofia is home to one of the most famous paintings of the 20th century: Guernica, by Pablo Picasso.


Crowd
          at Guernica
Crowd visiting Picasso's Guernica
0601b-mm-DSC05946-Guernica-ed-1200w.jpg

I had seen Guernica at the New York Museum of Modern Art in the 1960s. Picasso painted Guernica in Paris in 1937; it is based on an infamous Spanish Civil War bombing by the Nazis (Franco's allies) in the Basque Country town of Guernica in April of that year.  After Franco's victory, Picasso made it clear that it was not to be shown in Spain until democracy returned.  After many years in New York, in 1981 it was finally brought to the Casón del Buen Retiro (an annex of the Prado) in Madrid for the Centennial of Picasso's birth and eventually made its way to its permanent home at the Reina Sofia in 1992.


Retiro redux.  We returned to the Retiro for some more boats in the pond in the park action.

Dinner.  Prior to our splitting up the following morning, we had one last meal together. 
As most end of rugby tour nights, it was long and celebratory. Dana and I received thanks from the players, but we equally have them to thank for a great tour.

Toasting ourselves
Toasting ourselves
0601d-mm-DSC06264-salud-ed-1200w.jpg

V: Wrap Up

It was a great tour; what might have been a disaster, due to the canceling of the Benidorm Sevens, kept us all together. Álvaro was great and really saved the tour.  Pilar Hernández and the entire Arquitectura team welcomed us to their social after the first tournament and again to practice with them on Tuesday.  Ignacio helped bring us to see Benidorm and made it possible for me to bring the team to visit my father's home town and enjoy paella at my cousin Antonio's.  And I can't speak too highly of my cousin Antonio, his wife María Rosa, daughters Maite and Rosa, son-in-law Juan, and mother-in-law Teresa; they're always so good to me whenever I go and bring them a bunch of hungry rugby players to feed.

Our scrimmage with the Madrid Selects was really needed. We played so well in the tournament final.

I believe all the players had a great time.  I asked for their comments and have already included some.  Here are a few more:

Eli: "Since I've come back from tour, my friends, family, and club teammates have all asked me how my trip to Spain was. I respond to them all with the same simple word - Amazing."

"I'm not sure I can adequately communicate what exactly it was that was so great about this trip, but I must say that it was one of the absolute most fun and rewarding experiences I've had in my rugby career.  I've moved around the country several times and played on many teams, and I think what really stood out for me on this tour was the bond between our team both on and off the field.  I think over the course of the week, having a small touring group, staying together in a hostel and then as a team all together in the apartment, seeing the sights, taking a long road trip trapped in the vans, and spending a wonderful evening with [Emil's] warm welcoming family, that all made us become a family of our own.  I came into this trip only knowing a few of the players. I came away from the trip with a wonderful bond with a new group of friends.


Cynthia "This trip stands out from the rest of my travels in that it was the first time that I went abroad for a reason other than to see the location that I was visiting. I went to Spain to combine the skill in and passion for rugby that I had developed in California with that of my teammates from around the country ... Learning rugby songs in Spanish ... it was special to [compare] the rugby traditions that exist around the world  " Our last Spanish opponents in the Madrid 7s final match happily joined us in a team photo right after we had won the tournament and welcomed us to celebrate with them thereafter."

Märki: "On this trip I gained more than new rugby teammates, but friends who taught me many insights into life and rugby. In spite of some setbacks, the team exemplified the hard work ethic and values in which rugby unifies us. I will always cherish how we lived life and played rugby to the fullest."

Jess Wooden:
"On my first day in Spain it seemed like we walked at least 10 miles and toured the entire city of Madrid. The architecture and the culture of Madrid was a fantastic experience that I don't think would've happened if not for Atlantis and the hard work done by Emil and Dana.  Through all the early tribulations of this trip they pulled off something truly amazing!

"I really enjoyed playing with the Arquitectura women's team and how they helped us out with a practice field and even taught us some of their drinking games. The universality of rugby culture always gives me goosebumps and makes me so thankful that I am lucky enough to play this sport."
 
Kaelene: "I really loved [the tour]."  It was an amazing experience to go and play in another country and be about to experience some of their culture as well.  I always like having new and different coaches because i learn different thing and ways of playing the game that i would have never known.  I especially liked the relaxed atmosphere that went along with the tour.  We knew we were there to play some good rugby but were also allowed to experience the culture and have some free time... Overall it was an awesome opportunity to travel, meet new people, and play some rugby that I'm very thankful I could be a part of."

Josie: "I always love to play for Atlantis, as it's the club I'm most proud of: Atlantis has shown me that sport is a powerful communicator and device to transfer certain basic, humanistic principles."
 
*****
One of my favorite recurring moments with my father was, when he was in a particularly enjoyable situation, often  but not necessarily at the Jersey shore, he would sit back, relax, often but not necessarily with a beer in his hand, and comment, in his thick Spanish accent, "Emiliet, dees ees dee good life," and I had shared this quote on this tour. 

Here JT is holding up a sign, after the tournament final. The sign reads "This is the good life."  This tour was, indeed, the good life.


This is the good life
JT's got the tour wrap up right here: "This is the good life!"
This is also a great view of the Picasso drawing on our jerseys
0531d-DSC05483-this is the good life.jpg

Want to know more? Here's the full-length version:

Atlantis Women in Spain 2014: Full-Length Version
Table of Contents
Atlantis in Spain-I: first days
Atlantis in Spain-II: Mediterranean detour
Atlantis in Spain-III: Madrid 7s & day off

The full-length version has links to many sites relevant to Atlantis.

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