May 2014. Atlantis Women in Spain-III:

Return to Madrid and the Madrid Sevens Leg 3

(Atlantis tournament #144)
Emil Signes

  JUNE 15, 2014 (rev. July 30, 2014)

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Table of Contents
Atlantis in Spain-I
Atlantis in Spain-II

Friday May 30 (continued)

We dropped off our cars at a reasonable hour at the airport, cabbed it back to the Puerta del Sol, checked into our hotel, the Petit Palace Puerta del Sol on Calle Arenal, basically right on the Puerta del Sol (thanks again, Dana, for the location).  As opposed to the piso/apartment we'd had before leaving for the Mediterranean, we checked into 3 tiny rooms, with a bunk bed and two twins.  In my room I got the lower bunk for which I was thankful.

We headed for dinner.  We were on our own: most of us stopped in at small local eateries, had quick meals and got to bed in time to get a good night's sleep before the culmination of our tour.

It's been a few years since I'd been in the Puerta del Sol, but I noticed something different about the famous Tio Pepe sign: it wasn't where I remembered it, and I thought it had changed. (Tio Pepe is a brand of sherry and the sign is a famous part of Sol, kind of like the Boston CITGO sign visible from Fenway Park.)  After I got home I checked online and it turns out the sign  - which had survived a lot over the years, including the Spanish Civil War - was removed in 2011 and just this year an updated version was brought back to the Puerta del Sol, being lit for the first time on May 8, 2014 (tonight was May 30).  In addition, although it's back on the Puerta del Sol, it's on a different building.  I feel a little better about this now.

Tio
          Pepe sign in Puerta del Sol
The new (May 2014) Tio Pepe sign in Puerta del Sol
0530d-mm-DSC05035-Puerta del Sol-ed-1200w.jpg

Saturday May 31

We arrived at the Hortaleza grounds (same one on which 4 of us had played for Arquitectura the previous Sunday) at about 8:30 AM for a 10 AM game. It was a beautiful day and we arrived in plenty of time to go through our full warmup in comfort and be ready for the first game vs. Hortaleza.

All still action shots are by Francisco Santiago, the father of one of the Majadahonda players.

Game 1: Hortaleza.  We played a solid game and won pretty comfortably 30-0. Jess Wooden scored 2 tries, and Josie, Mollie, Eli and Marki had one each.  If we were to miss all our conversions, this was the game to do it in.

Happily, my cousin Yolanda and her family
came to support us at the tournament, and we took a photograph of them with us.  Somehow, however, sadly, that photo has entered the land of the lost. :(  At any rate, below is a photo of my Besteiro cousins (Yolanda in the middle of them) and me - taken on the previous Monday -with a bust of Spanish hero El Empecinado sculpted by our great-great grandfather Francisco Graciani (a cousin of the relative - mentioned early in this report - that named his daughter Nitroglycerine). The bust is located in the Alcalá de Henares City Hall, not open to the public, but Yolanda is a Councilwoman there so I was able to get in and see the sculpture.  (My lifetime search for Graciani/Graziani relatives and our common history continues, in both Spain and Italy: http://emilito.org/family/emilito/graziani/finding_graziani.html.) 

  El Empecinado & Fco's
          g-g-grandchildren
May 26: Emilito and his cousins Carlos, Yolanda and Angelita Besteiro, in Alcalá de Henares City Hall
The bust behind us, of Spanish hero El Empecinado, was sculpted by our great-great grandfather

0526a-es-DSCF0664-g-g-grandhildren & El Empecinado.jpg


The first two games were nearly 4 hours apart, so - besides taking a nap, we needed something to keep us amused, and the team broke into a long game of charades, which served its intended purpose.

Getting
          the charades clue   Charades - 2
Left: Our team gets a charade clue from a device on Cynthia's forehead /
Right: Presumably we are acting out something that will help her decipher our actions
0531d-mm-DSC05138-charades1-ed-1000w.jpg / 0531d-mm-DSC05169-charades2-ed-1000w.jpg

Game 2: Rugby Atleti.  Our second game was against Rugby Atleti. We suspected from watching earlier that this team was not going to threaten us, and I asked the team to play to our pattern.  Instead, we played a very selfish game, with each person in turn trying to do everything on her own. I was really angry afterwards, but Dana encouraged me to relax.
In retrospect, watching the video, there were a couple times I would have preferred they moved the ball, but for the most part, players were just playing what was in front of them.  At any rate, we won 57-0.

Lunde LO vs Atleti
Lunde gets high enough
0531b-fs-IMG_5808-Kaelene LO v Atleti-500w.jpg
 
We lost Lauren in this game when she slammed her foot into the turf and received an injury to her metatarsal. I took Lauren to the hospital and waited for her. They wouldn't work on her till she put down a credit card (she wasn't sure - and they weren't sure - if her US insurance would cover it).  Hint to all travelers: make sure a) your medical insurance will work overseas, or, if not, that b) you purchase travel insurance.  Regardless  of the outcome, the total bill, including X-rays, consultation, casting her foot (it was broken) was I think 285€, and crutches were I believe another 75€ ... worst case scenario, if her insurance doesn't cover it, she'd be out slightly less than $500. Not great, but imagine what we would have paid in the US for that.  And, medically speaking, Spain is a first-world country. Players need to be advised, each and every trip, their "to dos" include: have a passport, bring your passport, bring your boots, make sure you have insurance that will cover you, bring proof of that, etc ...

Lauren
          at hospital
Lauren at hospital
0531a-es-DSCF0742-Lauren at hospital-ed-800s.jpg

Semifinal: Sanse Scrum.  Lauren and I got back to the tournament in time for the semifinal game, a 17-5 win over Sanse Scrum, another top Madrid side. It was probably our weakest performance of the tour, but it was good enough for a relatively comfortable win over a good side.  It seems to be generally true that, even when you win a tournament, there's always one game where you struggle, and not necessarily the final. I felt more comfortable after this game than after the previous one.

The semifinal began well for us, as we got the ball back following our kickoff, won the ball at a ruck, and moved it wide to Mollie Martin who scored on the edge. With the half-time score 5-0 we scored from the opening 2nd-half KO when we won the Sanse kickoff and moved it back across the field where Mollie broke the line and took it all the way, virtually uncontested, for about 70 meters.


Mollie's animated try
Mollie Martin on try-scoring break against Sanse Scrum
0531c-fs-Mollie-try-ensayo-   GIF.gif

Final: Majadahonda.  The first 15 minutes of the 20-minute final was the best sevens we played on the entire tour.  Majadahonda had a very talented "keep away" offense, with midfield players capable of quickly changing directions.  To defend, we got our numbers in place, then got ready to jump in the lanes and double-tackle when opportunities presented themselves.  We did it very well.

We scored the first try following a long break by Kaelene Lundstrum.  We then had a scrum near the center and flyhalf Jess Wooden got the ball coming from right to left behind the scrum for the SH pass and took it to the left corner for the try.  Jess also scored the second try when she broke the line following a lineout (Majadahonda's line was not connected - train off the tracks we would say), beautifully stepped the sweeper and finished a 70-m try. Rhi Clark scored a third try from a Majadahonda turnover and following a great touchline conversion by Jess Wooden the halftime score was 19-0.


Jess confronts sweeper in final

Jess beats sweeper

In tourney final vs. Majadahonda, Jess breaks line, steps sweeper, and scores

0531b-fs-IMG_6154-Jess at sweeper-ed-1500w.jpg / 0531b-fs-IMG_6155-jess beats sweeper-ed-1500w.jpg

The first try of the first half belonged to us as well, as following a scrum at the Majadahonda 22, the ball got out to wing Mollie Martin who got outside her opposite to score 24-0.

We'd been playing all day with 10 and Majadahonda 12, and with Lauren injured we were down to 9.  Majadahonda had insisted on 10-minute halves (we would have preferred 7, but said nothing; we would have done the same thing in their place) and, now, about 14 minutes in, their decision seemed to be a wise one for them.  They picked up the pace, we started to look weary, and they started to exploit gaps.  Although they did score 2 tries, we hung in there and the final score was 24-10.  Great finish to the playing part of the tour!

The videos (ball in play) of each game may be seen here:
Atlantis 30 Hortaleza 0 / Atlantis 57 Rugby Atleti 0 / 17 Atlantis vs. Sanse Scrum 5 / Atlantis 24 vs. Majadahonda 10

Our 22 tries on the day may be seen by clicking on one of the links below:
6 tries vs. Hortaleza / 9 tries vs. Rugby Atleti / 3 tries vs. Sanse Scrum / 4 tries vs. Majadahonda

Atlantis Scoring Summary, Madrid Sevens Leg 3
Player
Tries
Cv.
Pts
Jess Wooden
5
9
43
Mollie Martin
6
0
30
Josie Ziluca
4
0
20
Cynthia Wright
3
0
15
Rhi Clark
1
0
5
Kaelene Lundstrum
1
0
5
Michelle Marki
1
0
5
Eli White
1
0
5
Total
22
9
128
Opponents
3
0
15


Madrid
          7s Champions
Champions, Madrid Sevens 5/31/2014
0531d-cw- Sat Madrid Champs-ed-1200w.jpg

We got together with Majadahonda for a joint photo afterwards, and had a couple of beers at the pitch to celebrate during the men's final.  It was well after 9:30 but still light when the tournament ended.  Before we even celebrated, JT was able to post a tour wrap up on a little sideline banner, which was a quote I'd used on several occasions on the tour.  I had noted that o
ne of my favorite recurring moments with my father was, when he was in a particularly enjoyable situation, often but not necessarily at the Jersey shore, often but not necessarily with a beer in his hand, he would sit back, relax, and comment, in his thick Spanish accent, "Emiliet, dees ees dee good life."

Her sign reads, "This is the good life." This tour was, indeed, the good life.


This is
          the good life
JT's got the tour wrap up right here
This is also a great view of the Picasso drawing on the jersey
0531d-DSC05483-this is the good life.jpg

It turns out it was second time we had defeated Majadahonda in a sevens final in Spain; the first was in La Coruña in 1997:
http://www.emilito.org/rugby/atlantis/1997/t_057.html

Here's a picture from the newspaper El Ideal Gallego's account of that 1997 tournament. Captain Mary Beth Spirk is now (2014) one of the top 20 coaches in the nation in victories among active NCAA D-III basketball coaches, having surpassed 500 wins with Moravian College earlier this year (my wife Heide and I were at the 500th to join the celebration!)


Kim Cyganik & MB Spirk with 1997 La Coruña trophy
1997, La Coruña: Kim Cyganik (L) and Mary Beth Spirk holding Atlantis' trophy

The team headed out into the center-city Madrid night and celebrated.

Queens in crowns
The tournament gave us no hardware, so these Burger King crowns had to do
0531d-mm-DSC05657-queens in crowns-ed-1200w.jpg

Sunday June 1

Sunday was a bonus day; the rugby was done.

I've noted that our hotel was basically right on the Puerta del Sol. The Puerta del Sol is considered to be the center of Spain, kilometer zero, the point from which distances on all radial roads are measured. The inscription below is right in front of the clock tower on which we saw the Atlético Madrid and Real Madrid tee shirts on Saturday when we (early arrivals) passed through.


KM 0
Inscribed on ground in front of clock tower
"Origin of the radial roads"

I can never think of km 0 without thinking of km 10 on the road to Andalucia.  Per official accounts it was there that my uncle Emilio Besteiro was summarily executed on August 10, 1936.  No one seems sure of the details. It was in the first month of the Spanish Civil War and people were being taken for "paseos" - walks. The procedure was, a couple of armed people would show up at your house, announce that you were being taken for "un paseo," and you would never be seen alive again.  The odd thing about tio Emilio's murder was that it seems that - though he, like all the Besteiros, was on the left politically - he was murdered by a left-wing assassin. Most current histories seem to agree that over the course of the war there were a lot more murders by Franco's side than by the Republic; in Madrid, however, controlled by the Republic, a lot of these type of executions were committed by the left. But it seems as though no one ever really figured out exactly what happened to tío Emilio.

A card issued to commemorate his death a number of years later says he was murdered by "la horda roja" - the Red horde.  That was clearly written once Franco was in power, so it certainly wasn't objective.  Opposed to the left-leaning Besteiros, the Lagos branch of my family (my mother's paternal branch) was on the right (my grandfather was a monarchist). The story my grandfather heard about tío Emilio was that because he wore a suit and tie to work the Communists thought he must have been a member of (or affiliated with) "the ruling elite" and therefore they murdered him. This (the murder of people that wore ties) was the rumor flying around right-wing circles in Madrid at the time, and apparently is at best an exaggeration *. Others told family members that Emilio was murdered by a disgruntled employee (Emilio was a manager for the Spanish railway system). I doubt we'll ever know.

* Tantalizingly, however, I found an article on speakingofspain.com that makes the whole story of men wearing ties as elite and therefore enemies of the people more believable: "In
the aftermath of the 1936 elections in Spain, the new government watched as overnight, villages and towns began to dismantle the old symbols of inequality in the country. The Manchester Guardian reported that in the new radical atmosphere of Malaga 'only foreigners now wore ties'”.

Emilio
          Besteiro Graciani 1930   Emilio
        Besteiro funeral card
Tio Emilio Besteiro in 1930 / A card issued on the anniversary of his death (my notes say 1942 but I don't remember why)
It says "vilmente asesinado por la horda roja" (vilely assassinated by the Red Horde)
 1930-12 BESTEIRO GRACIANI Emilio portrait-ed-800h.jpg /  1936 BESTEIRO GRACIANI Emilio.JPG

In a recent book about my great granduncle Julián Besteiro - Julián Besteiro: Nadar contra corriente - it notes that Julián was somehow apprised on July 21, 3 days after Franco's rebellion began, that his nephew Emilio had been taken from his home and held captive.  Julián asked for help for his nephew but was unable to save his life.  This conflicts with the story we'd always heard that there were only hours between tío Emilio's abduction and his execution, as, if the story I've related above were true, he would have been captive for 3 weeks. And by whom? The different versions of this story seem to be a reflection of all the uncertainty in Spain about what was happening at the time.  See Paul Preston's 2012 book The Spanish Holocaust for a description of the horrors of the Spanish Civil War.

My parents - on their honeymoon - were actually trapped in Spain when the war started - ironically they were scheduled shortly to head from a visit in Gata to Madrid to meet, among others, my grandmother's brother Emilio, when the war broke out - and they had to escape. One of the letters my parents had in their possession from Spain when they escaped was from tío Emilio, dated July 11, and is shown in part below.  He writes of the happiness he and his wife feel, "that you are on Spanish soil, and that the days are becoming years to us, before we can embrace you in person...."

But, that's another story for another time ... or go here:  http://emilito.org/family/emilito/signes/1936/1936trip.html.

Emilio
          Besteiro letterhead

Part of letter EBG to
          CLB
 11 July 1936.  Dear niece and nephew Carmita and Emilio:
We received your letter and I can't tell you the joy it's given us that you're on Spanish soil
The days are becoming years waiting to hug you personally. 
Until that moment arrives, receive [our hugs] by means of this letter
from your uncle and aunt

[Signed] Emilio and Lola


The letter from a thrilled Emilio Besteiro to his niece and her husband (my parents)
He was looking forward to meeting them about a month later
He was executed by unknown assailants less than a month later
They never met

In the Madrid of my Besteiro ancestors. We head to Calle de Milaneses, 6. This is where Emilio Besteiro's (and my grandmother's) father, my great-grandfather Ricardo Besteiro - and his father José Besteiro before him - owned a grocery store (or warehouse - tough to know by the Spanish word "almacén" and all I remember from my grandmother was it was a "tienda", a store). A couple of years ago an online search resulted in an 1879 newspaper advertisement for the store, then owned by José:

Advertisement for Jose Beteiro Guiza's store
An 1879 advertisement for my great-great grandfather José Besteiro Guiza's store
 1879 A 0for Jose Besteiro shop.jpg

Translation: 
STORE/WAREHOUSE OF FOODS FROM THE  COLONIES
OF JOSÉ BESTEIRO
Calle de Milaneses, 6, Madrid
    Domestic and foreign wines, all types of liqueurs, canned and preserved foods, cheeses,
dates, pistachios, gelatins, sausages of all kinds and from all countries.

WE DELIVER EVERYWHERE

We sat down and had brunch in front of the old family business and residence: Calle de Milaneses is the street on the right side of the corner.  The street on the left side of the corner building is Costanilla de Santiago and the family lived there, at #15, since at least 1855, the earliest year in which I could find them on the census; my great-grandfather Ricardo was less than a year old at the time of that census. (José, the owner of the store in 1879, was born in Lugo, community of Galicia; not sure when he moved to Madrid.)

Team in
          front of Milaneses 6   Corner of
          Milaneses & Costanilla de Santiago
Left: Team in front of Milaneses, 6 / Right: corner of Calle de Milaneses (right) and Costanilla de Santiago (left)
0601a-es-DSCF0748-team at corner of Milaneses & C-Santiago-ed-1000w.jpg / 0601a-es-DSCF0746-corner Milaneses & Cost de Santiago-ed-1000w.jpg

For some reason I was content to note the building but not explore.  It's currently a bar, "La Esquinita," and I checked it out on the web and it's got 4 out of 5 stars from customer reviews (https://plus.google.com/105814215540777802954/about?gl=us&hl=en). 

From the only review in English I found:
"La Esquinita is a Spanish version of a dive bar. A tiny spot, this place literally translates to "the little corner". Cheap beers and raciones [as I discuss elsewhere, raciones is the correct word for what I often incorrectly call tapas] have made lots of local customers who pack in on game nights. Right in the heart of town and not far at all from the main tourist corridor, there is nothing touristy about this spot. Worth a stop in if you're in the area."

From a 5-star Spanish review: "
Cervezas baratas y diversas. Buena atencion y servicio. Esto es lo que encontras en el Bar La esquinita. ... cuando ando por ahi paso por una cervecita, y darme un break para distraerme del stress diario. La esquinita es pequeno, pero no necesitas mas para darte un minuto." [Cheap and varied beers.  Good attention and service. This is what you will find at the Bar La Esquinita... When I walk by there I stop for a beer and to distract me from life's daily stress. La Esquinita is small, but you don't need more to give yourself a minute.]

How could I have been so close and not checked it out?

Oh, well ... next time for sure! The more reasons to visit a next time: and the sooner the better!

 
... and the Graciani actors.  We had lunch in front of the store and then wandered around this part of town, home to the Besteiro family.  Among the buildings we passed was the Teatro La Latina, where it's possible that Ricardo Besteiro's wife, my great-grandmother Victorina Graciani the actress, performed in her brief but notable acting career. And if not her, there were a bunch of other Graciani relative actors that populated the theaters of Madrid for decades. Perhaps the most famous, Fernando Delgado, died in 2009 (Fernando Delgado obituary) and his son Alberto is still on the Spanish stage and TV. I met (and saw in performance) both Fernando and Alberto between 1998 and 2003.

La
          Latina Theater in 2014
Teatro La Latina in 2014. What would great-grandmother Victorina have thought about the legs?
0601a-es-DSCF0754-Teatro Latina-ed-1200w.jpg

The Reina Sofia.  Next we headed to the Reina Sofia Museum (with two art history majors - Rhi and Josie - it was a given that we would visit here as well as the Prado).  The museum gave instructions to take only non-flash photos, except ... no photos at all of Guernica.  So I don't know how this picture got taken, but ... shame on you, Marki.  And thanks.

Crowd
          at Guernica
Crowd visiting Picasso's Guernica
0601b-mm-DSC05946-Guernica-ed-1200w.jpg

I had seen Guernica at the New York Museum of Modern Art in the 1960s. Picasso painted Guernica in Paris in 1937; it is based on an infamous Spanish Civil War bombing by the Nazis (Franco's allies) in the Basque Country town of Guernica in April of that year.  After Franco's victory, Picasso made it clear that it was not to be shown in Spain until democracy returned.  After many years in New York, in 1981 it was finally brought to the Casón del Buen Retiro (an annex of the Prado) in Madrid for the Centennial of Picasso's birth and eventually made its way to its permanent home at the Reina Sofia in 1992.

Here are a few more selected pictures from the Reina Sofia.

Group
          at Entrance to Reina Sofia  Dali's premonition
          of Civil War
Left: At Entrance (Rhi, Josie, Mollie, Emil, Marki, JT) / Right: Dali's Premonition of Civil War (1936)
0601b-jz-IMG_6730-Reina Sofia entrance-ed-1200w.jpg / 0601b-jz-IMG_6777-Dali premonition of Civil` War-ed-800w.jpg

Jess and sculpture   Jess &
        sculpture
Left: Was Jess really the model? / Right: Lunde crawls through interactive exhibit
0601b-jz-IMG_6772-Jess and sculpture-ed-600w.jpg / 0601b-jz-IMG_6760-Lunde in sculpture-ed-900w.jpg

Most of team at Reina Sofia
Most of team between exhibits at Reina Sofia
Now we are taking care of our captain as she's taken care of us
0601b-jz-IMG_6785-the crewatRSofia-ed-1200w.jpg

Finally, still a bit upset that I didn't remember the Feria del Libro was on this week, I did manage to pick up a couple of books at the Reina Sofia bookstore to ease the pain.

Boats in the Park: Reprise. We headed back to the Retiro and it is beginning to seem like "been there done that"; almost time to leave.  The boat pictures are pretty reminiscent of Monday's pictures so I haven't included any.  Today, though, we did pass a magic show in the Retiro.

Magic show on the Retiro
Magic show in the Retiro
0601c-mm-DSC06141-magic show-ed-1200w.jpg

Our last night in Madrid.  Later in the evening we went out for dinner to a classy restaurant not too far from the Puerta del Sol.  It was really nice (though when in Madrid I prefer making my dinner be a collection of tapas, er, I mean raciones).  Dana and I received nice thank-you cards, we cheered ourselves for our achievement during the week, and headed back, some to party, some to sleep.

As most end of rugby tour nights, it was long and celebratory. Dana and I received thanks from the players, but we equally have them to thank for a great tour.

Toasting ourselves
Toasting ourselves
0601d-mm-DSC06264-salud-ed-1200w.jpg

Thank you cards.
Management receives thanks from the players
0601d-mm-DSC06192-thank you cards-ed-1200w.jpg


Rookie Show / Coke-Pepsi Revisited.  Among other performances, we had a Rookie Show tonight, which comprised mostly the usual (friendly) mocking of the veterans. As noted in Part I of this report, we also continued the decades-long Coke/Pepsi rivalry. Perhaps the funniest moment of this rivalry - judged by consensus (where consensus was determined by the Coke captain) - was Coke's performance featuring this ditty, sung to the tune of the "Brady Bunch" (only a partial text survives):

"Here's a story
Of a man named Emil
Who was traveling with 11 rugby girls
All of them had speed and skill
Just like Dana
The youngest one loved Curls"

Chorus:

"The Fucking Boats,
The
Fucking Boats,
We're so glad Emil found
The
Fucking Boats!"

I'm so glad I came up with such a quotable quote this week.

And oddly, but topically from our point of view, while we were there, El Cultural, a weekend supplement to the daily newspaper El Mundo, featured an old historic picture of the Retiro in honor of the book fair with which we started the week. I picked up El Cultural and there it was, a boat in the pond in the park.

Retiro on El Cultural cover
Cover of El Cultural 5/30 to 6/5/14 cover
0530ec_ElCultural-1000h.jpg

Monday June 2

The team went home; I returned to my relatives' - Amalio and Javier's - piso on Calle Lagasca in the Salamanca district of Madrid.  I made another quick stop at the Archives to follow up a lead and started planning my next visit there, possibly this year.  I returned to Amalio's to relax.  Finally in the evening I made one quick stop at a local bar - Hermanos Alonso - on Lagasca, where I'd had so many evening tapas/raciones over the years dating back to the 80s ... Having made my peace with Madrid for this trip, I got a good night's sleep and left on Tuesday morning.

Javier
          & Amalio in office
Javier and Amalio in the office.  At 94, Amalio is still a practicing Urologist.
0602-es-DSCF0774-Javier&amalio-ed-1100s.jpg

Some "Off the Field" Pictures / Some Closing Remarks

Here's one final run through our tourists, in each case with a non-rugby playing picture.  Where they've chosen to add a closing comment, I've included it here.

Rhi Clark

Rhi joins the Sangría
                                                          toast
Saturday, May 24: Rhi participating in the first tour "Cheers!"
0524-ew-IMG_0050-Sangria-ed-1200w.jpg


Lauren Rhode

Flex-off
                                          Rhi and Lauren
Rhi & Lauren - the tour's muscular Yin and Yang - flex off on Madrid Metro
0525c-cw-DSC_0153-Rhi & Lauren flex-ed-900s.jpg


Josie Ziluca

Josie headed back to San Diego where she plays for the Surfers and continues her goal to become a contracted player.  She continues to be a heavily recruited player and captained the Stars 7s on their successful (finalists) tour of the Calgary Stampede 7s and will head to Australia with them later this year.

Josie's wrap up contained the following sentence (I've used the entire remark earlier), which is what I love to hear from all our players:

"I always love to play for Atlantis ... "


Josie in
                                            boat in park
Josie at the Retiro
0526b-jz-IMG_6463-Josie in boat-ed-1200w.jpg


Kaelene Lundstrum

 "Overall it was an awesome opportunity to travel, meet new people, and play some rugby that I'm very thankful I could be a part of."


Graceeas - KL learns
                          pronunciation
Kaelene working on her Castilian pronunciation at the field (Thank You / You're Welcome)
0531a-mm-DSC05121-Gratheeas-ed-1200w.jpg


Mollie Martin

Mollie ready to start the
                          paella
Mollie ready to get the paella eating started
0529c-es-DSCF0723-Mollie starts serving paella-ed-900w.jpg


Jess Wooden

"I really enjoyed playing with the Arquitectura women's team and how they helped us out with a practice field and even taught us some of their drinking games.  The universality of rugby culture always gives me goosebumps and makes me so thankful that I am lucky enough to play this sport."

Jess
                                            helps finish the paella
Jess helping finish up the paella
0529c-ew-IMG_0237-Jess getting seconds-ed-800h.jpg


Michelle Marki

"My favorite part of the trip was visiting Coach Emil's extended Signes family and receiving their gracious hospitality and generosity of amazing paella (featuring rabbit!) and food, touring around, and seeing "Carrer Signes" in Gata de Gorgos, near Benidorm, Spain. This trip being the second visit to Spain in my life, these experiences broadened my appreciation of Spanish culture and people. Our last Spanish opponents in the Madrid 7s final match happily joined us in a team photo right after we had won the tournament and welcomed us to celebrate with them thereafter.

"On this trip I gained more than new rugby teammates, but friends who taught me many insights into life and rugby. In spite of some setbacks, the team exemplified the hard work ethic and values in which rugby unifies us. I will always cherish how we lived life and played rugby to the fullest."

Marki in crown
Marki wears her hardware proudly
0531d-mm-DSC05557-Marki and crown-ed.jpg


Cynthia Wright

This tour exemplified once more how the rugby game and culture permeates our society at a global level . . . It's a good reminder of how small and interconnected our world actually is. I will never forget standing in the orange groves in
Gata as the sun sets, in awe of the beauty and peace. Regardless of what may be going over here in DC, I know that those sunsets are still happening in Gata. At the risk of sounding corny, i look forward to finding more of those moments. I'm honored to be part of this rugby family and can't wait for the next opportunity.

Cyn & Rhi statuesque - 2
Looking statuesque: Cynthia and Rhi
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Jess Turner

JT rowing
JT rowing in the Estanque at the Retiro
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Eli White

"
The best part of the trip was winning the tournament, not just because we won, but because of how we won and how it felt as we played together - I almost didn't want the match to end. We started off the week a group of talented, but individual, rugby players. On Saturday, our first game, though we played well, we were still individuals. Each game we got a little better - maybe it was the bonding over Charades, or rallying around our injured Captain, or just the culmination of a week of fun together, but that last match, we really brought it all together. I remember in our pre-game huddle, we all looked at each other and promised to play that game for each other, for the player next to us with Atlantis on her chest, and we all really took that to heart. It wasn't just words, it was a great feeling, and we won that final in the best way - as a true team, with everyone making key contributions and playing for each other."

Huddle prior to final
Pre-final Huddle
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"
I have been lucky to have played for several different clubs and select sides, and have been incredibly honored to wear the Atlantis jersey for each tour.  Thank you for the opportunity to join this team, to continue to learn from you, and for an amazing experience in Spain"

Eli on play horse
Eli prepares for Go Kart racing with a horsey ride
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Dana Creager

"I really enjoy coaching players that have a carefree attitude mixed with a strong desire to work hard and learn new things.  The players on this tour perfectly encapsulated all of those things."

Dana
                                          relaxes in hammock
Carefree, Dana relaxes in hammock as tourney goes on
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  Emil Signes

"We were all chatting at the end of the tour about what we thought was the best part of the trip. The two parts of me traveling on this trip - Emilio
Signes Lagos Monfort Besteiro García Diego Toledo Graciani Costa ... (etc), descendant of at least centuries of Spanish ancestors, and Emil Signes, rugby coach - had two different answers.

"For the descendant of Spaniards Emilio, it was getting his team acquainted with both sides of his family: a) his father's branch in their home town of Gata de Gorgos, feasting on the world's greatest paella, and wandering the town including a stop at Signes Street, and b) meeting his (maternal) Besteiro relatives in Madrid, and seeing several places where their common ancestors had interacted with that city.

 

Family at Pou
Family at Pou: Juan Lillo and his wife Maite Signes; Maria Mulet, Antonio Signes, Rosa Signes, Teresa Cervera, Emilito
0529c-cw-DSC_0799-family in Spain & me-1200w.jpg

"For rugby coach Emil, winning the tournament, and winning it by playing excellent sevens, really put an exclamation point on an already fabulous (and amazing:) trip.  And it wasn't as if we didn't play any good teams: Majadahonda knew how to play the game of sevens; they got deep, spread the ball wide, had midfield players that changed direction very effectively, and were very disciplined. It was a very satisfying victory... "

And, as a P.S., it turned out, based on the following week's results, Sanse Scrum, whom we struggled to beat in the semifinal, went on to become the champion of the entire Madrid Sevens Series; they defeated Majadahonda 17-12 in the final of the entire series on an overtime try by Maria Ribera.

Here's a wrap up, in Spanish, of the series.

http://rugbyfemenino.com.es/2014/06/sanse-scrum-campeon-del-seven-de-madrid/

And here, also in Spanish, a mention of the leg that we won.
http://rugbyfemenino.com.es/2014/06/atlantis-gano-la-tercera-serie-en-madrid/

Love and Documentation

This was another great Atlantis tour.  I've been blessed with the opportunity to take Atlantis teams of both sexes on amazing tours to amazing places.  Very occasionally we get invited to sponsored or partly sponsored tournaments, but for the most part we can't offer the players anything (and I mean anything) in the way of financial support.  The only thing Atlantis can normally offer its players is love.  And documentation.  But lots of both ...

Hmm ... "Atlantis: Love and Documentation ... " how does that scan?

Which reminds me ... I've still got to finish my write up
of Fiji 2014. And I think Las Vegas 2013.

It seems like this never ends.

Which, I guess, is a good thing.

End of the Tour

Often getting players to do skits is a chore; this team, however, couldn't get enough of them. The picture shown below is taken from the last one of these, the evening before we split and headed home.  I've taken it metaphorically to be this team's welcome to future teams to pass under the Atlantis arch into future places in future times.

Cynthia:  "I could have easily continued to tour for another week with the group that I was with. I feel very fortunate to have been on tour with this specific group of girls. Everyone brought something unique to our collective experience in Spain."

Sadly, Cynthia, each tour has to end. But at some not very predictable time in the future,
happily, the next one begins.

And I'm sure that will outlive my reign as Emperor. :)

Creating a pathway from
          this tour to the next
Creating a pathway from this tour to the next
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FIN

Table of Contents     Atlantis in Spain-I    Atlantis in Spain-II
Abridged Version (a la Reader's Digest Condensed Books)

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